Full-Size Toe Pincher Coffin
What you will need:
I followed all of Scott's coffin plans except for
the original dimensions. His coffin is 17in deep where mine is only
15, which I think makes it look a bit more proportioned. I also
didn't use 3/4 mdf board. Instead I used 3/8 plywood for the base
as well as the entire frame of the coffin.
When I originally built coffins, they were first built out of 2x4's then covered with masonite. They looked ok but were heavy and not detailed at all. This coffin was built using no internal supports or braces, but to do so, I had to use a nail gun with 1.5in nails and alot of patients.
First I cut out the base with the exact same dimensions as Scott's. I also cut the lid out of 3/4in plywood with the same dimensions as the base. In Scott's plans he used 3 12in pine boards that he glued together. I wanted to skip this step and avoid the hassle of gluing, clamping, and sanding the 3 boards together as well as I am using a pneumatic cylinder to lift the lid and I was afraid that the pressure from the cylinder would eventually break the glue bond. If you are using a pneumatic cylinder to lift the lid I advise that you follow my advice. Now that we have our base and lid cutouts, I then cut the remains of the 1st sheet of plywood into 14in strips for the walls of my coffin .
|Unless your a seasoned woodworker, I suggest
cutting each piece independently and use 13-15 degree angles
on all butted edges. Once you've cut all your panels and dry
fitted them to ensure a correct fit then you can start constructing.
I used a generous amount of "External" wood glue around all
edges that were to be nailed then proceeded to nail all of
the sections to my base panel. After all sections were nailed
to my base, I flipped the whole thing over and proceeded to
nail the tops of the panels together. Be careful if your using
a nail gun because on a few of the angles the nails wouldn't
go in and they were flying all over the place. After that
part is done, I recommend sealing all joints with wood glue
and let the whole thing dry overnight. While it is drying
take your dark walnut stain and apply it to all surfaces that
will not be covered by the pine boards(where the handles will
Now that your glue and stain are dry, start applying the pine board walls. I used the 6in board around the bottom and the 4in around the top. I once again used 13-15 degree angles on all of the joints. Don't nail or screw any of these boards onto the plywood frame because we will need to router them shortly.